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| Belfast to Bermuda | |||
| Belfast/Written for Waldo Independent |
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9/23/93 At the dock here in Belfast working on some last minute preparations.Today I will get the track on the trysail lower so that I can hank on the storm trysail and leave it bagged at the base of the mast.This will allow me to easily raise it when needed. In so many ways I have mixed feelings regarding the point I am at right now. I know that I should be excited about the up coming voyage though I still feel an aire of seriousness about the whole thing. This serious attitude may stem in part from the long months of preparation and work that has lead up to this point in time and also to the anxiety that I feel in getting close to my departure date. For so long I have thought about making a voyage such as this.What will it be like.? Will I be disappointed ? Afraid,confident, probably all this and much more as well.Sixpence is looking her best with her new sails,and many recent additions such as the bubble hatch for foreward viewing,kerosene heating stove for our comfort and many new costly improvements that both make her safer and easier to sail.Last sunday I took sixpence out for the last trial sail before our voyage on a blustery autumn day.I wanted to test out the new autopilot under some challenging conditons as well as try out the new storm jib with the new rigging changes that I have made. I continue to hear horror stories about dismastings,gigantic seas,etc. but I know that it would be best to concentrate on having a safe enjoyable voyage rather than to imagine monsters rising up from the depths to devour both myself, Carolyn and the boat. I have prepared the boat to the best of my abilities and will continue to trust my instincts and abilities to get us there safetly.For digestibility sake I have divided up the journey into 3 legs.The trip to Boston the trip to Bermuda and the trip to the virgin islands.Right now the portion of the journey that I have the most trepidation about is the journey to Bermuda. Mostly this is so because of all I have heard and read about the notorious Gulf stream,that river of warm water that run's along the east coast of the U.S. and is known to contain all sorts of sea monsters and giant rogue waves.The last I heard 50 foot waves were not uncommon along with 200 ft.sharks large enough to swallow a small sailboat in 2 bites. So much for horror stories.The stories that you don't often hear about are the voyages that conclude safetly with little to no major disasters.People don't want to hear about those journeys which contain nothing but enjoyment with days of perfect reaching sailing weather and long moments of sunbathing bliss. To begin and end a story with "The journey went perfectly and we arrived without the slightest bit of trouble would cause the reader to fall asleep knowing that all is right with the world.What a terrible state of affairs. Well more often than not there are adventures to be experienced that are not of the planned variety that allow for good story telling at a later time. And with each telling of the tale the story grows and is modified to produce the widest eyes and the most admiration for the brave soles who went thru the ordeal. Carolyn is taking the attitude of open minded expectations.In other words she has no idea what she is getting into .She told me last night not to leave her anywhere even if she desires so. In other words if she wants out I should handcuff her to the grabrail and wait for things to improve. What power I have.Actually Carolyn has been very good natured about the whole thing and has taken great pains to shop for food and stock the boat with the finest in canned items.The latest in her finds are dried tofu and turkey jerkey.I'm hoping that we can find powdered lobster to add to the delicacies. We have affectionately labeled the possiblity of getting seasick as driving the big white bus.The Bus being the Toilet seat I presume.The last time we experienced the Mal De Mur was after eating Tuna melts in a following sea in the gulf of maine.Sea sickness remedies on board range from acupads for the wrists to omabushi pears in the navel,ginger in the ears,patches,saltine crackers and the latest one which is popcorn covered with brewers yeast.If we don't get sick I think that we may feel that we've waisted a lot of space on the boat for the remedies. So the preparations continue for another week or so though of course the wind is blowing hard out the north today and it would be a good day to leave. 10/3/93
At the belfast dock here next to the light ship nantucket doing last minute preparations on the boat.We have been trying to get things organized in the small space down below before departure which will be hopefully tommorrow. The weather today is raining with the wind out the north west.It is supposed to clear today with the wind going into the southwest. 10/5/94
Still here in Belfast .It seems that the most difficult trip in this situation is getting out of town.I feel like a fly stuck to fly paper. Managed to get sixpence loaded up with supplies yesterday.Storing everything was in itself an adventure.The only problem now is when opening a drawer or cabinet everything which has been stuffed inside rushes to freedom.I managed get off the dock to a mooring last night making yesterdays run 1/4 mile. Not bad for the first day. Today the wind is supposed to blow hard out of the north/west so I am ready and willing to drop the mooring line and proceed southward. It is definately cooler this morning with a cold front having come thru last night.There talking snow up in the mountains. Yesterday had a quality of unreality to it as I prepared to leave my house /What is the meaning of this journey for me.Is it an exercise in breaking routines,finding myself,renewing my body,getting a good tan etc. Often the experience of something does not correspond with the image or the ideal imagined alredy the fantasy and the experience have been different.I guess that is a good thing for if they were the same the life's surprises would not happen.
10/5/93
Shakedown to Boston -------------------
Finally on our way.Sailing down Western Pennobscott bay under a reefed Main sail and Genoa with 15 knots of wind out the northwest.It is hard to believe we are actually under way after all the preparation .It's difficult to imagine all that is involved in a voyage such as this. Buying the boat,preparing the boat,aquiring the skill's,finding a Doctor to cover my practice,etc.and so on and so forth.I was thinking this morning as Belfast disappeared from view how satisfied I feel.The moment was perfect,a dream realized. Once again I have discovered that a vision focused on and retained in the mind with the work necessary ,can become true. What are my goals and desires for this journey. Well firstly rejuvenating my soul and body are of the highest priorities.Not that my life back home was anything but wonderful.A routine even a wonderful one is still a routine and in order to keep my life fresh and new these adventures are necessary. I know that I should be excited about the up coming voyage though I still feel an aire of seriousness about the whole thing. This serious attitude may stem in part from the long months of and work that has lead up to this point in time and also to the anxiety about the unknown. For so long I have thought about making a voyage such as this.What will it be like.? Will I be disappointed ? Afraid,confident,probably all this and much more as well. Sixpence is looking her best with her new sails,and many recent additions such as the bubble hatch for foreward viewing,kerosene heating stove for our comfort and many new improvements that both make her safer and easier to sail. In the Gulf of Maine Wednesday evening we encounter our first taste of sailing reality with 30-35 knots of winds and seas bigger than I have experienced before. In these kinds of condition going up front to do deck work literally strikes fear in my heart. Myself and Carolyn huddled down below hoping that the boat would hold together.It's hard to describe the sounds created by a wooden boat going to weather but it certainly does not make for restfull sleep.As we sped on thru the night sparks seemed to be created by the wake of the ship as the photoplankton became activated by our motion thru the water giving the impression of a space ship blasting thru the atmosphere.As morning came the sight outside was awfully impressive with greybeard waves moving in many directions and sixpence flying at 7.5-8 knots of speed.Eventually the wind moderated and our confidence in the boat and it's seaworthiness was established.Sixpence could take more than we could.
I'm not ashamed to say that during the evening I began to have a few second thoughts about this adventure but as all things seem easy in retrospect "It was a piece of cake !".
Next:Passage to Bermuda. -----------------------
10/25/93 Passage to Bermuda ------------------ Our stay in Provincetown proved to be an interesting one with all the variety that this city had available . P-town is an interesting mix of people to say the very least and an evening female impersonator show capped off our visit. I fell in love with a Woman ? named "Billy Jean" but Carolyn reminded me that looks can be decieving so I backed off.Such is life.
The weather began to look promising for a passage on a north wind so with p-town setting on the horizon we headed towards the infamous Gulf Stream. The Gulf stream is a river of warm water that follows along the east coast of the United states before heading East across the Atlantic.It has earned it's reputation (rightly so) of being highly unpredictable due to the convergence of the cold water and air descending from the north and the warm moist air and water traveling up from the south.Large confused seas along with squalls and cross currents are often encountered.It was with trepidation that we proceeded on towards this body of water.Before reaching the Gulf steam though we were visited by a 200 ft.Coast Guard Cutter off of Nantucket . Just a friendly housecall to make sure we were o.k. and in compliance with the proper number of life jackets and flares.It's nice to know someone cares. My hope of a smooth Gulf stream crossing was dashed when I tuned into the weather report during the evening predicting a southeast Gale with winds between 35-40 knots.Just what the doctor did not order but since our necks were already stuck out to the limit there was no choice but to proceed on and take whatever came our way. From the log: 1730 Approaching the Gulf Stream in rising wind and seas.I'm a bit anxious about making this crossing in the middle of the night in these conditions but at this point it seems like the best choice.Taking on quite a bit of water over the bow though Sixpence seems to be riding well in these seas. Currently I have the trysail and storm staysail up with 50% of the Genoa rolled up. A little bird has set up housekeeping on the boat.Looks like he got blown off of course and is huddling in a corner.Poor thing ! The motion of the boat in these seas is hard to describe.I hope I don't have to go up front tonight.I would compare doing deck work at this point to riding on a Roller coaster standing up while trying to tie one's shoes.I wear a safety harness though it is a nusiance in that if I am not careful I get hung up on it and instead of drowning I hang myself. I asked Carolyn for one word to describe the trip so far and she said "Next time I think I'll take the Plane!". Log 12:00 10/22/93 -------- We are currently 180 miles south of Bermuda.Breaking the bonds of the Gulf stream was no easy task.I had heard that you could get stuck in the Gulf stream and now I understand.Currently the wind is from behind and we are experiencing the shake rattle and roll approach.Everything in the boat that is loose is moving.The other interesting feature here is that when you try to move you really don't know which way you are going to fall. Eating is a comical affair with food going pretty much everywhere except for your mouth.I would estimate 50% of the meal goes in the mouth and the other 50 somewhere else. Landfall Bermuda ----------------
Approaching Bermuda in the middle of the night with the wind on the beam and a moderate 6-8 ft.sea.Bermuda is fringed with reefs that extend 10 miles out so if your navigation is not accurate you could end up on the reef before sighting land. As things turned out I elected not to enter the harbor in the middle of the night due to an old chart that I was using and my exhausted state of mind."When in doubt go back out !" Instead we spent an awfull night hove to driting along the southern coast waiting for daylight.
Postscript ----------
Bermuda has turned out to be a wonderful place to rest and rejuvenate.The people are friendly,the food expensive and the dockage is free.The next few weeks will be spent enjoying the island,repairing Sixpense and preparing for the leg down to the Carribean.I just worked on one of my patients,Tom Bournival,who is transporting a boat south.It's a small world !!! Hello and love to all !
Next:Passage to the Carribean -----------------------------
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